Part I: Mr. Pearl
Korsett Mr. Pearl (c) Albert Handler
Museen und Sammlungen sind essentielle Inspirationsquellen für die Arbeit von Designern – nicht nur in Hinblick auf
Malereien, die sich mit den Kleidungsstilen der jeweiligen Zeit auseinandersetzten. Auch Objekte können Inspiration für Farbpaletten und
2013 wird Mr. Pearl, der weltweit berühmteste Korsettmacher und Kleidermacher, seine Affinität zu historischen Stücken und ihre Bedeutung als Inspirationsquelle für seine Arbeit anhand einer Gegenüberstellung ausgewählter Exponate aus den Sammlungen des Kunsthistorischen
Museums und Stücken aus den Archiven großer Modehäuser, für die Mr. Pearl arbeitet, erklären. Im Rahmen des 12 festival for fashion & photography erörtert er dieses Thema im Gespräch mit der Modefilm-Pionierin Diane Pernet.
Where does your fascination for corsets come from? How did you start your profession?
My grandmother wore corsets on a daily basis, I grew up helping her with the lacing. This ritual must have planted a seed.
My interest in classical ballet, discipline and training helped me to understand more about the incredible capacity of the human body and how it can push limits for change – mind over matter.
Ballet bodices require to fit like a glove, they are also boned like corsets. In my spare time I assisted in a costume wardrobe where I observed that these tightly fitted bodices enhanced the natural form of the human body. I came to understand that the posture in ballet derives from the fact that dancers were corseted up until the end of the 19th century. I wanted to make such form-enhancing garments.
You have been collaborating with various haute couture labels such as Thierry Mugler, John Galliano or Christian Lacroix. Are corsets coming back into fashion?
I believe corsetry has its place beyond fashion, it exists in its own realm. There are the waves of fashion that demand changes from season to season, for example the tight silhouette. Yes, then of course corsets. The next season is all loose and away from the body. For me corsets are about enhancing the body and the human form is timeless.
You have already been visiting Vienna before and had a look at the corset´s collection of the Kunsthistorisches Museum. What was that experience like for you? Did it inspire you in any way?
The Empress Elisabeth of Austria represents one of the highest points of what discipline and corsetry can achieve. Divine beauty. The Empress would represent the soul of the exhibition as she is one of my greatest inspirations.
You are not only world´s most famous corset maker, you are also wearing your corsets every day. Why?